With no English (and barely any Arabic from our side) she managed to convey, with a huge toothless grin, that she, too, was a grandmother, proudly bringing out her daughter and her granddaughter to show us.She then pressed a small packet of freshly picked dates into my mother’s hands before we made our way on through the village. A fleeting but memorable experience only able to be shared by a lucky few.
Another shared experience, more shared memories and an opportunity for all of us to learn more about each other…just some of the benefits of multi-generational travel.
Most people find that 3 days is the optimum duration, giving time to enjoy the sweeping views and spectacular volcanic terrain of the central North Island whilst also providing a reasonable challenge and delivering a great sense of accomplishment on completion. Travelling in a clockwise direction, day one delivers an easy 8.5 km walk (3 hours) along a well maintained gravel path through native bush and across stream beds before opening out on to barren scoria landscape. As you get closer to your overnight destination of Mangetepopo Hut, the imposing cone of Ngauruhoe and the flatter form of Tongariro loom in to view, giving you a taste of the spectacular terrain you will be encountering after your first night’s rest.
 The Philippines are divided in to three main island groups. Lying in the heart of the central group, known as the Visayas, you will find the diverse and fascinating island of Bohol. Covering an area of just over 4,000 square kilometres, Bohol is essentially an agricultural province with rice, coconut and corn as the main produce. However, with the newly developed international airport set to open at the end of this month, with an annual capacity of 2 million passengers, tourism is set to become its biggest earner.
There are also numerous picturesque waterfall and rivers to explore and, for the more intrepid, plenty of opportunities for Spelunking (that’s cave exploration for the uninitiated)!
Luckily for us, word has not yet got out to the masses about how great Bohol and its surrounding islands are, making now the perfect time to visit easily and yet still be able to appreciate the relaxed, low key atmosphere of the place. But get in quick…a hidden gem like this won’t stay hidden for long!
This concern can lead to many families opting for a pretty conservative break – a resort with a kids club – and if that’s genuinely your happy place then all power to you, read no further. However, I’ve always struggled to sit beside a pool for more than a few hours without boredom setting in, so the thought of doing that for a week or more surrounded by hundreds of other families feels like the antithesis of a holiday for me. If you’re on a similar wavelength and crave a more interactive holiday, then having kids in tow is far from a barrier; it’s quite the opposite. They provide the perfect motive to get out and about and really see a country properly.
Sure, there will be some days that are harder than others when your kid is tired (or just plain grumpy!) but in reality you get those days at home too. You will find, however, that if you plan your days well, making sure you have enough down time for your child to just be a kid and kick a ball, have an afternoon nap in a proper bed or play with some toys, then you can minimise the tears and have a happier time travelling as a family.
Until a recent trip to Argentina, I had never even heard of the Iberá Wetlands and was completely unaware of its scale and significance. Whilst travelling through the country, Iberá was recommended as an up-and-coming visitor destination by a number of locals. With our curiosity well and truly piqued, my family and I managed to reshuffle our schedule and squeeze in a two-day stay in this little-known water wonderland. Now, I firmly believe that it’s a secret not just to share, but to inspire.
Until relatively recently Esteros del Iberá was a region of livestock grazing, commercial hunting and illegal poaching. Puma, jaguar, wolf, deer, giant anteater and otter used to be regular inhabitants of the area but numbers had significantly declined over the years, with many species becoming endangered and, in some cases, almost extinct. While this is, sadly, not an unusual scenario in areas rich in wildlife, the story behind its reversal in Esterros del Iberá really is. In 1983, as part of an international treaty for the conservation and sustainable utilization of wetlands, the area was included within a provincial protected area, the Iberá Provincial Reserve. Driven by a combination of philanthropy, social conscience and local pride, Ibera’s renaissance began.
And, just as fascinating as the wildlife, is the shift in the mindset of the local people. Predators such as jaguars were once viewed as costly pests that preyed on cattle; now they’re regarded as symbols of regional pride and as potential economic assets, enabling communities to diversify from agriculture into tourism. Happily, the communities — a fascinating mix of indigenous Guarani and traditional gaucho cultures — find themselves an increasingly compelling component of the growing tourist appeal. Although the local people are flattered by the attention they’re now receiving – and extremely excited about the potential for sustainable tourism growth in the future — they are very content to play a supporting role to the main attraction — the calm beauty of the wetlands themselves.
The nearest major centres are Corrientes and Posadas, both with flights from Buenos Aires (or an 11 hour bus ride) but then one then needs to travel a further 3 – 6 hours by bus and/or private vehicle to reach the handful of small towns that service the Iberá Wetlands area. As we discovered, however, it’s more than worth the inconvenience of the additional hours we spent on the region’s local buses. (Chartered vehicles are also available for those shorter on time and/or less restricted by budget.) The traditional stepping off point to the area is Collonia Pellegrini, set on the eastern edge of the reserve. We, however, entered it from the western side making the quaint town of Concepción our base.
With winter nearly upon us here in the Southern Hemisphere it is the perfect time to start planning a break away to sunnier shores. |
| Esala Perahera, Sri Lanka: 17th—27th Aug, 2018. Considered one of the most beautiful pageants in Asia, the Esala Perahera is one of the oldest and grandest of all Buddhist festivals in Sri Lanka, featuring dancers, jugglers, musicians, fire-breathers and lavishly decorated elephants. Celebrated to honour the Sacred Tooth Relic and the four ‘guardian’ Gods Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Goddess Pattini, this 10 day festival is a riot of colour and sound. |  |
| Kin Jay Festival, Thailand: 20th—28th Oct, 2018. Running for nine days, the Kin Jay festival in Phuket is lively, chaotic and loud. A throng of people form around the procession while chanting and throwing fire crackers; a lion dance weaves through the crowd and a select few participants actually practice self mutilation in the form of piercing their cheeks with swords, walking on hot coals, and climbing ladders made of knife blades! |  |
| Tazaungdaing—Festival of Lights, Myanmar: 20th to 23rd Nov, 2018 The Tazaungdaing Festival takes place in southern Shan State. Arguably the most spectacular event of the year, this festival marks the end of the rainy season and hosts thousands of tourists and pilgrims alike to enjoy the amateur and expert balloon competitions and gaze at the illuminating paper balloons floating up into the night sky. |  |
· Eco-tourism pick for 2018 - The Elephant Conservation Center, Laos
 | The Elephant Conservation Center is located in northern Laos, just 2 hours from Luang Prabang. Its program is set up around the wellbeing of the endangered Asian Elephant and focuses on both the reproduction and vet care of their 30 strong herd and the education of mahouts. With both experiential and volunteer programmes for visitors running from 2 to 7 days, this is a fantastic opportunity to get up close to the elephants and to support Laos's declining elephant population. |
· Argentina - a new destination for Adventure Together
| My son went to Argentina for the latter part of 2018 for a language exchange and I was fortunate enough to visit this incredible country with my family at the conclusion of his stay. We focused our time in the northern part of the country, taking in spectacular natural sights such as Iguazu Falls, the Salinas Grandis Salt Flats, the rocky deserts on the border with Bolivia and the wildlife rich area of Ibera Wetands. |  |
 | Alongside the natural wonders, the three main cities of Rosario, Cordoba and Buenos Aires were full of colour, stunning architecture and strong cultural elements. I am excited to be able to offer Argentina as an additional destination for my clients. |
With Christmas fast approaching I felt it was timely to thank you for your support over the past year and to wish you a safe and happy festive season.
I look forward to helping you and your family get off the beaten track in 2018!
In this issue:
· Top 3 destinations for 2018
· Hot new travel pick
· New destination for Adventure Together
I look forward to helping you and your family get off the beaten track in 2018!
In this issue:
· Top 3 destinations for 2018
· Hot new travel pick
· New destination for Adventure Together
Top 3 destinations for 2018
The more you travel, the more you realise there’s so much of the world still to discover. Check out my top destination picks to add to your 2018 travel bucket list.
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Hot New Travel Pick
World Heritage Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Vietnam.
 | With its karst mountains, underground rivers, historic sites, extensive caves and unspoilt jungle, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is packed with opportunities to hike, bike, paddle or simply relax in one of Vietnam's most spectacular and interesting regions. The national park is home to Hang Son Doong, confirmed as the biggest cave on the planet and only recently opened to the public. |
| This is set to become one of the hottest tickets in travel for in-the-know adventurers so book your holiday now with Adventure Together and be one of the first travellers to experience this awesome spectacle. |  |
New Destination for Adventure Together
The Philippines.
I was lucky enough to travel to the Philippines twice this year—once on holiday and once being hosted by the Philippine Department of Tourism. This is a superb location for those keen on scuba diving, natural wonders and laid back hospitality. I am excited to add the Philippines as Adventure Together’s latest destination and look forward to sharing the wonders of this beautiful country with you.
Call us selfish, but my husband and I weren’t ready to stop travelling just because we had started a family. Maybe part of us wanted to stay young and irresponsible, and sure, the mortgage could have been paid off a whole lot sooner had we not spent so much time over the past 16 years gallivanting around the world, but what we have come to realise lately is that we have given our kids values that are increasingly more difficult to teach in the fast-paced, crazy, “it’s all about me” world of today.
Our kids, now aged 16 and 13, have been fortunate enough to travel to over 35 countries, predominantly developing nations throughout Asia and the Middle East. With backpacks on and our desire to really engage with the locals, the children have seen a simplicity in lifestyle far removed from their usual home comforts. At times they came face-to-face with poverty, sickness and corruption; but this was almost always offset by unbelievable human resilience, care and kindness.
Our kids, now aged 16 and 13, have been fortunate enough to travel to over 35 countries, predominantly developing nations throughout Asia and the Middle East. With backpacks on and our desire to really engage with the locals, the children have seen a simplicity in lifestyle far removed from their usual home comforts. At times they came face-to-face with poverty, sickness and corruption; but this was almost always offset by unbelievable human resilience, care and kindness.
 | As they grow older we are seeing these encounters contributing to their personalities; how they have literally and figuratively widened their view of the world. In our opinion (though we are almost certainly biased!) these experiences have given them a great foundation for being compassionate, empathetic and basically, nice human beings. And we’re not the only ones who feel travelling with kids can be beneficial to their development. |
“Engaging with another culture helps kids recognize that their own egocentric way of looking at the world is not the only way of being in the world,” says Adam Galinsky, a professor at Columbia Business School. Galinsky, who has conducted extensive research on the benefits of travel on the brain’s neural pathways, says studies show international travel also increases cognitive flexibility, which is the mind’s ability to jump between different ideas. “This act of perspective-taking is a critical ingredient in compassion and empathy,” he claims.
In addition to compassion and empathy, cross-cultural experiences have the potential to pull people out of their cultural bubbles, and in doing so, can increase their sense of connection with people from backgrounds different than their own.
“We found that when people had experiences travelling to other countries it increased what’s called generalized trust, or their general faith in humanity,” Galinsky says. “When we engage in other cultures, we start to have experience with different people and recognize that most people treat you in similar ways. That produces an increase in trust.”
In addition to compassion and empathy, cross-cultural experiences have the potential to pull people out of their cultural bubbles, and in doing so, can increase their sense of connection with people from backgrounds different than their own.
“We found that when people had experiences travelling to other countries it increased what’s called generalized trust, or their general faith in humanity,” Galinsky says. “When we engage in other cultures, we start to have experience with different people and recognize that most people treat you in similar ways. That produces an increase in trust.”
| Not that just visiting a country and staring at the locals is going to be like waving a magic wand over your kids and, hey-presto, a golden future for them is guaranteed. You have to teach them to engage with the local culture they are travelling in, see not only the good but also the bad about each culture so they can start forming opinions about how they want to be in this world and help keep life in perspective for them when you get back to the ‘normality’ of home. |  |
The mortgage may well still be there when you get back from your travels but helping your kids navigate the world might just help set the bearings on their moral compass, making all of you a whole lot richer in life.
A regal encounter wasn’t something I was anticipating from my visit to West Timor, but a royal audience with a bonafide king turned out to be a somewhat surreal but very genuine highlight of our expedition of this far-flung Indonesian territory.
The eastern-most outpost of Indonesia, locally known as Palau Timor, is actually surprisingly accessible – just a 2 hour flight from Bali, but a world away from the tourist meccas of Kuta and Nusa Dua. Tourism is still very much in its infancy in West Timor which has some very positive spin-offs for those who do venture there. Firstly, visitors are highly valued, partly for their novelty factor but also because the locals are so proud to have the opportunity to share their culture and their stories. Secondly, if authenticity is what you want from your travels then you don’t have to go far to find it.
The eastern-most outpost of Indonesia, locally known as Palau Timor, is actually surprisingly accessible – just a 2 hour flight from Bali, but a world away from the tourist meccas of Kuta and Nusa Dua. Tourism is still very much in its infancy in West Timor which has some very positive spin-offs for those who do venture there. Firstly, visitors are highly valued, partly for their novelty factor but also because the locals are so proud to have the opportunity to share their culture and their stories. Secondly, if authenticity is what you want from your travels then you don’t have to go far to find it.
 | West Timor remains largely untouched by modern life and is comprised of tribal communities that continue to follow ancient traditions. Animism is still widely practised in the beehive-hut villages that are scattered through the stunning mountainous interior and it’s estimated that over 14 different languages are still spoken, to the degree that the official national language of Bahasa Indonesia is spoken by a minority (and English by even less). These language barriers mean that a local guide is by far the most effective way to navigate the country, reveal the sights and to follow the nuances of tribal protocol (which, we soon learned, generally entailed the gifting of small amounts of betel nut which seemed insignificant payment for the volume and warmth of the hospitality which was provided in return). |
The bustling student town of Kupang is the main gateway to West Timor. We enjoyed the wide smiles of the friendly locals, the chaotic streets, lively waterfront and, in particular, our dinner of freshly-caught fish from the market that was cooked for us whilst we waited.
| We also had a memorable visit to the nearby Tesbatan Waterfall. A short walk through native forest brings you to this picturesque cascade of crystal clear water, complete with a deep swimming hole at its base – a perfect place to cool off and watch the locals brave the jump from the top of the falls into the pool below. Although, our real focus was the hinterlands, West Timor is also home to a spectacular coastline which is largely unspoiled and has many opportunities for activities such as surfing, scuba diving and fishing. We popped up to the island of Alor, a short 50 minute flight from Kupang, where we enjoyed scuba diving in the warm waters and watching the locals going about their fishing and daily lives. |  |
We then flew back to Kupang and were soon on our way east. Our first stop was the village of Nome, one of West Timor’s last headhunting villages and home to the animist Dawan people.
 | Nome is home to just over 50 families that have resided here for 9 generations. They live in traditional beehive-shaped huts called ume bubu and have no electricity or running water. The village sits on a high promontory with 60 metre cliffs on three sides and a coral wall on the fourth. As they were still fighting off attackers and taking the heads of the vanquished well into the 1960’s (despite this practise being officially banned in 1942), this natural defensive wall was imperative for survival. Tribal conflicts are now a thing of the past but tribal honour is alive and well – the fact that the village had never been conquered by rivals remains a huge source of Dawan pride. |
| Further east still and West Timor’s landscape becomes more mountainous and the scenery more impressive to match. You will be treated to far reaching views over farmland, rivers and groves of mahogany trees and glimpses of undeveloped villages that the road passes through. Perched high on one of these mountains is Fatumnase, a mountain village well known as a base for trekking and bird watching. It is a long way to go for a mere day trip so try to schedule some time to stay and explore this beautiful area. Although fairly basic, there is a school, running water and electricity here and the odd juxtaposition of the occasional satellite dish sat beside a traditional hut will put a smile on your face. |  |
 | From Fatumnase we travelled north, nearing the border with independent East Timor. Here we visited the town of Kefamenau, known as Kefa. This was our guide’s home town and we were privileged to be welcomed into his home where the extended family threw a celebration for us complete with traditional dancing. The hospitality was heartfelt, the food plentiful and the atmosphere festive – we partied West Timorese style and loved every moment. |
 | Kefa is also a great place to explore the surrounding area, one of the highlights being the isolated village of Temkessi. Perched on the edge of towering limestone cliffs, Temkessi still retains the traditional, animist religion and way of life. Stunning vistas await once you have hiked up the narrow path hewn out of the cliff, with views out to the distant sea when the weather is right. The last stop on our journey before we returned to Kupang took us even further into the ‘real’ West Timor. Traversing the unsealed roads and tracks (a 4WD vehicle is essential) felt like a real adventure, a feeling that grew when we reached our next destination, the beautiful village of Boti. The village didn’t just look like something out of a fairytale, it sounded a little like one too – in Boti, the men are traditionally forbidden to cut their hair after marriage as it symbolises their connection to nature. And they are ruled over by their own king, with whom we were to be granted a royal audience. |
| I’m not sure if all rulers are so immediately likeable, but Boti’s king greeted us warmly and invited us to take tea with him outside his hut. Language prevented us from communicating directly but he seemed genuinely honoured to be visited by 3 generations (my parents were travelling with me, my husband and our 2 children) and through our guide we made enquiries of each other’s family and respective ways of life. We must have received the royal seal of approval as we were later invited to dine with him – the only time I can honestly say I’ve been served food fit for a king. We were able to explore the village at our leisure and were charmed by the simplicity and contentment of Boti’s truly communal lifestyle. Despite his status, the king tends to the fields alongside the rest of the men whilst the women cook and weave clothes for all the villagers. We learned that the king had decreed that one child per family can be sent to an outside school, with the expectation that they will bring their skills back to the village to enhance village life upon their completion of their studies. |  |
Our pro-royal sentiment increased with the duration of our stay – the king was gracious, hard-working and caring. We left Boti with a strong sense of admiration for the strength of community that he’d built and the prosperity he’d created for his people. It proved a noble conclusion to a majestic West Timor adventure.
With one hand holding your toddler and the other clutching the map, how many bags do you really want to be lugging around with you as you explore the world? The answer is, as few as possible!
Having spent the past 15 years travelling with our two children and experimenting with different packing methods I’ve settled on a strictly minimalist approach. I now focus on only the essentials. And I’ve said goodbye to suitcases (regardless of how fashionable they are or how easily they glide across the floor) – backpacks may not look so glam and don’t do 3 point turns, but they do leave your precious hands free for more important matters.
Having spent the past 15 years travelling with our two children and experimenting with different packing methods I’ve settled on a strictly minimalist approach. I now focus on only the essentials. And I’ve said goodbye to suitcases (regardless of how fashionable they are or how easily they glide across the floor) – backpacks may not look so glam and don’t do 3 point turns, but they do leave your precious hands free for more important matters.
 | We’ve found that items like nappies, baby food and even changes of clothes are readily available almost everywhere in the world – often at a cheaper price than you’d pay for them at home. Our first ‘big trip’ with a young one in tow was to Sri Lanka with our son, then 20 months old. My husband, loaded up like a pack horse with enough nappies for the entire trip (plus more besides - well, you never know…!) was dismayed to find Huggies in every corner store. Familiar foodstuffs (for those days when only tinned spaghetti will hit the spot) are usually also readily accessible. We’ve given up on packing toys too – they can be bought really cheaply at your destination and have high novelty value for your kids. And should they tire of them, they make great gifts to local children and you can then repeat the process. This makes for a cost-effective way of keeping your family entertained whilst also spreading a bit of joy on your travels. |
| There are a few items, however, that you will want to make room for. Making sure your kids have something to entertain themselves on long journeys, and also for the much needed ‘down time’ both you and they will want along the way, is essential. With the proliferation of electronic devices it is now very easy to load books to read and games to play, but for those of you who want your holiday to be a screen-free experience, then a stack of paper and coloured pencils is a must. A pack of cards is also a handy thing to have, as are a few hard copy books for those bed-time reads. |  |
If your child is particularly fond of an item, like a cuddly toy or blanket, I strongly suggest it stays at home. We learnt this the hard way when our 3yr old daughter, accidently lost her ‘blanky’ out the window of a Vietnamese train… bed times were fraught for some time afterwards! After that, we started introducing a ‘special travel item’ to our kids a month or so before the trip to provide the necessary comfort without quite the same level of emotional attachment so that, if lost on the journey, it wasn’t the end of the world.
The bottom line is, as long as you have your passports you really don’t need much else. Pack light, buy local and keep your hands free to hold onto your toddler and share the magic of travel with them.
The bottom line is, as long as you have your passports you really don’t need much else. Pack light, buy local and keep your hands free to hold onto your toddler and share the magic of travel with them.
It’s no surprise that New Zealand has just been named as the third most beautiful country in the world by the influential travel publication, Rough Guides.
The publication highlighted New Zealand's rolling green hills, majestic mountains, breath-taking fiords and amazing diversity of landscape from one island to the next as the reason for its high rating.
The travel guide also wrote that you never meet anyone who has been and didn't love the place, as well as praising the distinct and fascinating culture of the indigenous Maori people.
Known locally as Aotearoa – land of the long, white cloud – New Zealand is comprised of two main islands, is home to a population of roughly 4.6 million people and sits a 3 hour flight south-east of Australia. And I am lucky enough to be one of those 4.6 million people!
Sitting literally nearly at the bottom the world, and surrounded by the stunning Pacific Ocean, New Zealand takes a bit of an effort to reach but once here, visitors will be glad they bit the bullet and weren’t put off by the long travel time.
You will find that travelling as a family here in New Zealand is easy and rewarding, especially if you enjoy the outdoors and are keen to interact with the locals.
The publication highlighted New Zealand's rolling green hills, majestic mountains, breath-taking fiords and amazing diversity of landscape from one island to the next as the reason for its high rating.
The travel guide also wrote that you never meet anyone who has been and didn't love the place, as well as praising the distinct and fascinating culture of the indigenous Maori people.
Known locally as Aotearoa – land of the long, white cloud – New Zealand is comprised of two main islands, is home to a population of roughly 4.6 million people and sits a 3 hour flight south-east of Australia. And I am lucky enough to be one of those 4.6 million people!
Sitting literally nearly at the bottom the world, and surrounded by the stunning Pacific Ocean, New Zealand takes a bit of an effort to reach but once here, visitors will be glad they bit the bullet and weren’t put off by the long travel time.
You will find that travelling as a family here in New Zealand is easy and rewarding, especially if you enjoy the outdoors and are keen to interact with the locals.
 | From lush rainforest filled with native bird life, picturesque vineyards, bubbling thermal pools, indigenous Māori culture and stunning golden sand beaches in the North Island to fiords, glaciers, spectacular mountain ranges and volcanic black sand beaches dotted with drift wood in the South Island, New Zealand has something that will inspire and delight any visitor. But it’s not just the landscape that stays in visitors’ minds long after they have finished their holidays here – it is also the people. |
Kiwis, as us locals are known, are generally laid-back and friendly. Perhaps it is because we live in a country with such a small population and an abundance of riches well away from the influences of the rest of the world. Kiwi hospitality is famous the world over - we have time to smile, to be friendly and, most importantly, we genuinely want to share the pride we have for our gorgeous country.
| Our indigenous Māori culture provides the foundation for this warm welcome – we call it manaakitanga – and our Maori heritage continues to be central to our current way of life. Captain Cook may have been the first westerner to discover New Zealand, but the Māori people had been inhabiting this land for a long time before his ship arrived on their shores. You will find that most place names are in Māori, along with the use of many words in our everyday language – Te Reo Maori has equal status alongside English as official languages of New Zealand. Visitors can still experience traditional Maori culture in displays and shows throughout the country and even visit a marae, or meeting ground; the focal point of Māori communities throughout New Zealand |  |
Excellent cuisine is a hallmark of any great holiday and New Zealand is no exception. Our food is best described as Pacific Rim, drawing inspiration from Asia, Polynesia and Europe. This blend of influences along with the abundance of fresh, tasty produce has created a mouth-watering range of flavours and dishes. Our lamb, seafood and shellfish are some of the best in the world – as is the Kiwi family fast food favourite of very, very fresh fish and chips!
The dining out culture has well and truly found its way to New Zealand and there are plenty of establishments to choose from nationwide, ranging from the laid-back café to the 5 star restaurant. Top the great food with world-class, award winning, local wine and craft beers and you will certainly have no problems feasting your way around the country.
The dining out culture has well and truly found its way to New Zealand and there are plenty of establishments to choose from nationwide, ranging from the laid-back café to the 5 star restaurant. Top the great food with world-class, award winning, local wine and craft beers and you will certainly have no problems feasting your way around the country.
 | New Zealand is also renowned for its outdoor activities - from the extreme such as bungy jumping, white water rafting and mountaineering, to the more sedate such as horse riding, whale watching and some of the most picturesque trail walks on the planet, you will find a wealth of activities that you and your family can enjoy. The best advice I can give you, however, is to allow an adequate amount of time to visit this spectacular country. It may look small on the world map, but the huge diversity of landscape, activities and attractions, coupled with winding roads and the many opportunities to get off the main highways and explore the lesser known areas, means that you will always leave wishing you had been able to stay for longer! |
With limited time and budget for a stop-over in the Philippines, on our way to the UK for a family wedding, convenience and cost dictated that we stay close to the central hub of Manilla. On a rare trip without children, we decided to make scuba diving the focus of our stop-over. After some research we chose to head a few hours south-west of the capital city to the region of Puerta Galera on the island of Mindoro.
The websites said that it had some of the best diving in the Philippines but, being so accessible to the capital city, we tempered our expectations. At the end of our fifth day here and 10 dives later, we are happy to say that the websites are not just hyperbole. I am sure that there are some other great spots in such a huge country but we have been suitably impressed with what we have experienced here and would not hesitate to recommend to others regardless of their diving ability or experience.
We chose to stay in Punta Galera Resort, a 15 room hotel set right on the beach and with stunning views over the water back towards the mainland, Punta Galera is a mid-range accommodation option run by incredibly friendly staff. The hotel itself is very new, only opening in January of 2017, so all rooms and facilities are in excellent condition, including the onsite restaurant, bar and small swimming pool.
Two doors down is Action Divers. Although many dive ventures here are attached to an accommodation provider, Action Divers is the only operator in the area who specialise solely in scuba diving. That, and the fact that it is run by a fellow Kiwi, was the big selling point for us and we have not been disappointed. Roscoe, the owner, has a policy of renewing his scuba gear every 18 – 24 months so all equipment is in impeccable condition. In addition, their entire staff are highly skilled, knowledgeable and, above all, extremely personable. And the dive sites have been superb!
The websites said that it had some of the best diving in the Philippines but, being so accessible to the capital city, we tempered our expectations. At the end of our fifth day here and 10 dives later, we are happy to say that the websites are not just hyperbole. I am sure that there are some other great spots in such a huge country but we have been suitably impressed with what we have experienced here and would not hesitate to recommend to others regardless of their diving ability or experience.
We chose to stay in Punta Galera Resort, a 15 room hotel set right on the beach and with stunning views over the water back towards the mainland, Punta Galera is a mid-range accommodation option run by incredibly friendly staff. The hotel itself is very new, only opening in January of 2017, so all rooms and facilities are in excellent condition, including the onsite restaurant, bar and small swimming pool.
Two doors down is Action Divers. Although many dive ventures here are attached to an accommodation provider, Action Divers is the only operator in the area who specialise solely in scuba diving. That, and the fact that it is run by a fellow Kiwi, was the big selling point for us and we have not been disappointed. Roscoe, the owner, has a policy of renewing his scuba gear every 18 – 24 months so all equipment is in impeccable condition. In addition, their entire staff are highly skilled, knowledgeable and, above all, extremely personable. And the dive sites have been superb!
 | Most of the dives are only 5-20 minutes from shore. We’ve very much enjoyed strolling from hotel to dive centre and on to the waiting boat. The proximity means that you can pop back to your hotel between dives and fill out your log book, check out the numerous street stalls and restaurants or just simply relax. Dives are scheduled daily at 9am, midday and 3pm so you can pick and choose accordingly. |
| The reefs are extremely healthy and have avoided dynamite fishing that has been unfortunately commonplace elsewhere in South East Asia thanks to a forward thinking government and UNESCO who put this area under a Marine Reserve protection order back in 1997. With some strong currents, the fish life is prolific and both hard and soft corals abound. And with over 30 dive sights suitable for varying levels of divers, you can stay a week and not get bored. So far, the highlights we have seen have been sea-horses, turtles, giant frog fish, lion and scorpion fish, banded sea snakes, feather stars in an amazing array of colours, a dozen different nudibranchs, huge drop offs teeming with fish out at Verde Island and an impressive steel hulled ship wreck at 30 mtrs deep housing a proliferation of life. |   |
 | But it is not just under water that Puerto Galera turns on its charm. The locals are laid back and welcoming and there is plenty to do if you want to get out of the water and head inland. There are two waterfalls nearby - Tamaraw and Talipanan Falls. Both involve short walks and give a lovely taste of the local tropical jungle. For a more ambitious hike, a Mangyan guide can take you up Mt Talipanan. It takes about four hours to get up and a few hours to get down, so start early. You can also visit the local Mangyan villages where the locals are renowned for their intricate nito weaving and wood carving. Action Divers and Punta Galera Resort are located on Little Laguna Beach, connected by a beachside walkway to the laid back bars and fine dining restaurants of adjacent Big Laguna Beach, making both spots ideal for families or couples who want to relax. Alternatively, those who like a party should take the path a few minutes in the other direction to the exuberant nightlife of neighbouring Sabang. It’s precisely this choice and proximity, on land and in the water, that makes this such a great pick. |
Although we’re a family that loves to travel, it can be difficult to pinpoint a destination that will appeal equally to everyone. Especially as I love to scuba dive, my husband likes to venture off the grid, and our two children are different genders and ages.
However, it quickly became clear that we’d hit the jackpot when we started exploring the possibility of a holiday to Malaysian Borneo: the provinces of Sabah and Sarawak are home to jungles filled with wildlife that appeal to nature lovers of any age; ancient villages are home to headhunter tribes that still live in traditional longhouses; and the excellent offshore reefs offer some of the world’s best diving and snorkelling.
After plenty of research and planning, our enthusiasm grew. When we finally departed for our three-week trip, our two children — then aged 12 and nine — were more excited than we were.
However, it quickly became clear that we’d hit the jackpot when we started exploring the possibility of a holiday to Malaysian Borneo: the provinces of Sabah and Sarawak are home to jungles filled with wildlife that appeal to nature lovers of any age; ancient villages are home to headhunter tribes that still live in traditional longhouses; and the excellent offshore reefs offer some of the world’s best diving and snorkelling.
After plenty of research and planning, our enthusiasm grew. When we finally departed for our three-week trip, our two children — then aged 12 and nine — were more excited than we were.
 | Our first stop was down on the southern coast of Sabah, peppered with numerous idyllic islands featuring pristine beaches fringed with palm trees. The waters teem with resident green and hawksbill turtles and spectacular coral reefs supporting an abundance of marine life. Our island of choice was Mataking. This small island is roughly 90 minutes by speed boat from the mainland and houses the only resort with an attached scuba diving centre plus a turtle hatchery run by the local turtle conservation society. Guests are able to help with the release of hatchlings into the wild — an experience the entire family found very special (and very cute). The surrounding waters of Mataking Island are a major tourist drawcard with warm, crystal clear seas, a large and colourful house reef complete with a resident barracuda (christened, of course, Barry) and dozens of turtles that were very relaxed around snorkelers and divers alike. And just two hours’ boat ride away is Sipidan Island, rated as one of the world’s top dive spots. The unique conditions attract a spectacular array of coral and marine life where massive shoals of barracuda and jackfish swirl around schools of manta rays and even, at the right time of year, whale sharks. |
Feeling relaxed by island life, pampered by the resort and thrilled by our marine experiences, we headed in search of the wildlife that this part of the world is probably the most famous for: orangutans. One of the best places to catch a glimpse of Borneo’s distinctive, but often elusive, native primate is Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. The orangutans that reside here have been relocated due to either loss of their habitat caused by deforestation or loss of their families to poaching. They are now cared for and protected by a dedicated team of vets and volunteers, providing visitors with a magical opportunity to get up close to these amazing creatures. In return, the younger orangutans are equally curious and often swing onto the boardwalks to investigate the tourists close up (I quickly learned to hold on tight to the camera).
| Sepilok was amazing, but we were keen to see orangutans in the wild too. This means venturing off the beaten track — but not too far. A short journey from Sepilok by car and boat is Kinabatangan National Park. This 27,000-hectare reserve is home to a large number of creatures, ranging from orangutans, gibbons and proboscis monkeys to Asian elephants, crocodiles, weird and wonderful insects and a diverse range of birdlife including rare hornbills and brightly coloured kingfishers. The park contains several jungle resorts, providing visitors with easy access to the surrounding wildlife via guided walks and river safaris. Dawn is an optimum time to spot the shy orangutans and their primate cousins and the early start is more than worth it; cruising along the mist-shrouded river to a deafening dawn chorus was a fantastic way to appreciate where we were. Another of Sabah’s attractions is the towering Mount Kinabalu, one of Southeast Asia’s higher peaks. It can be climbed over a couple of days but we weren’t sure that our children were quite old enough for that challenge yet, so instead left Sabah for its sister state of Sarawak. |  |
We flew directly to Mulu National Park, in the heart of Sarawak’s rainforest. Mulu is renowned for its caves and their residents: over 3 million wrinkled-lipped bats. The nightly spectacle of them swarming at dusk to feed is quite incredible, a memorable way to round off a day exploring the caves, the rainforest and attractions including the treetop canopy walkway.
A short flight to Sarawak’s capital of Kuching — derived from the word for ‘cat’ in Malay — brought us towards the end of our trip. A friendly town with significant Chinese and Muslim influences and countless cat statues, Kuching sits on the banks of the Sarawak River and is well worth a short visit. It’s also a prime spot from which to visit some of the remaining traditional headhunter tribes who, despite their relative proximity to the modern world, still retain their centuries-old customs and practices.
A short flight to Sarawak’s capital of Kuching — derived from the word for ‘cat’ in Malay — brought us towards the end of our trip. A friendly town with significant Chinese and Muslim influences and countless cat statues, Kuching sits on the banks of the Sarawak River and is well worth a short visit. It’s also a prime spot from which to visit some of the remaining traditional headhunter tribes who, despite their relative proximity to the modern world, still retain their centuries-old customs and practices.
 | We decided to spend a couple of nights in a traditional wooden longhouse, which proved to be a memorable experience. Our guide transported us by car, boat, then on foot to the village of an Iban tribe that fortunately no longer hunts the heads of rival tribes (which was a relief). The tribespeople were delighted to share their lifestyle with visitors. Ruled by its chief, the tribe has no electricity, or any modern trappings, and uses a bartering system instead of money for most of its needs. Thirteen family groups reside in the longhouse, each with its own room linked to an open, communal living area. Stock such as pigs, goats and chickens are kept beneath the longhouse and the gardens consisting of vegetables and rice are owned and tended by all. The Iban made us feel warmly welcome with a traditional ceremony featuring dancing and copious amounts of homemade Iban whiskey and tuak, a type of rice wine. Before long, language barriers were forgotten, our children joined in with games with the Iban children, and we quickly began to feel a part of the extended longhouse family. |
| Our days with the Iban were spent observing their traditional way of life, exploring the surrounding jungle in dug-out canoes, admiring their skills of fishing and hunting, and then cooking and consuming their catches. It was a privilege and a joy to share the simple pleasures of Iban life with these deeply contented people and a real life lesson for our whole family, proving that conventional wealth and home comforts that most of us aspire to are not prerequisites for happiness. After three days it was time to say goodbye to our kind and generous hosts and head back to Kuching for our flight home — sad that our holiday was at an end, but eager to share our experiences of Borneo’s wildlife, scenery and people with those back home. |  |
I well remember the months of being pregnant and constantly being told that I couldn’t eat this, drink that, lift those heavy objects or generally do what I wanted to do. And even things I was technically allowed to do were often too difficult due to time or physical body restrictions. So, it was with great relief when the baby was born and I finally felt free to do some of the things I had been hankering for – not least, get out my passport and my backpack and travel overseas again.
As a rather naïve first time mother (I had even forgotten to pack clothes for my new born son so we could leave the hospital after the birth…) I was perhaps not the most well equipped person to be taking precious cargo into the unknown. But, as it turned out, the lack of worry and planning worked in my favour as it meant I got to travel to areas that, if I had thought about too much, I probably would have been too nervous to go.
Now, fifteen years on, I have got the preparation and planning thing down to a fine art – it’s just that now, rather than having to think about bottles for the baby, I have to discuss with my teenagers why their devices are staying at home.
Here are a few things I have learned over the years…
As a rather naïve first time mother (I had even forgotten to pack clothes for my new born son so we could leave the hospital after the birth…) I was perhaps not the most well equipped person to be taking precious cargo into the unknown. But, as it turned out, the lack of worry and planning worked in my favour as it meant I got to travel to areas that, if I had thought about too much, I probably would have been too nervous to go.
Now, fifteen years on, I have got the preparation and planning thing down to a fine art – it’s just that now, rather than having to think about bottles for the baby, I have to discuss with my teenagers why their devices are staying at home.
Here are a few things I have learned over the years…
Preparation and packing tips:
 | You'll probably want to stick pretty close to home for the first few months after your baby's born. Between feedings and diaper changes, a new baby requires almost nonstop attention. In addition, the risk of a newborn catching something while traveling is quite high as their immune system is not well developed. Once they hit that 3 month mark though, as long as they are healthy overall, there is nothing stopping you whisking them away to those exotic destinations on your bucket list. Firstly, make sure your baby has had the relevant vaccinations needed for the destination and, of course, good travel insurance is a must! I found that carrying your baby in a front or back pack was the easiest way to transport them. Strollers are cumbersome and often difficult to pack down quickly when you want to pop on to buses and in to tuk tuks etc. and having them close to you is also easier when negotiating busy pavements and market places. The main rule to packing is not to take half the stuff you think you might need as you almost certainly won’t! Babies really don’t need much apart from food, a clean nappy and sleep. If you are breast feeding then the food part is sorted. If you are bottle feeding then baby formula can be found easily all over the world and usually using NZ milk powder! Nappies are also easily found as are baby wipes, powder and Vaseline. And one thing you can be guaranteed, babies will sleep anywhere when they are really tired so nothing special is needed to help with this aspect of things. |
Passport ins and outs:
| Every child under the age of 16 must have their own passport if they are travelling from NZ. Even new born babies are subject to this requirement and although the form isn’t difficult to fill out, you will want to allow enough time to get the passport photo done. There are clear guidelines stating that the baby’s eyes must be open and they must be facing the camera with nothing obstructing their face – not so easy to do when newborns spend so much time either sleeping, crying or putting their fists in their mouths! You may well need to make several trips until you get a successful shot, so plan ahead. |  |
Ideal destinations:
1. Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka remains one of our favourite destinations to travel as a family. The country features landscapes, nature, beaches, history and culture all within a relatively small area, eliminating the necessity for any long journeys which makes it suitable for even the youngest of families.
Sri Lanka remains one of our favourite destinations to travel as a family. The country features landscapes, nature, beaches, history and culture all within a relatively small area, eliminating the necessity for any long journeys which makes it suitable for even the youngest of families.
2. Cambodia
Cambodia is renowned for its ancient history, as on display at the amazing Angkor Wat, and notorious for its more recent past under the regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. It is also gaining recognition for its superb beaches on the south coast. Once again, it is a relatively small country with an excellent public transport system so internal travel is quick, cheap and simple.
Cambodia is renowned for its ancient history, as on display at the amazing Angkor Wat, and notorious for its more recent past under the regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. It is also gaining recognition for its superb beaches on the south coast. Once again, it is a relatively small country with an excellent public transport system so internal travel is quick, cheap and simple.
3. Borneo
Malaysian Borneo - home to amazing wildlife, stunning scenery, indigenous tribes and tranquil islands surrounded by clear seas teeming with life - this is a slice of paradise on earth that really has it all! Although much bigger than either Sri Lanka or Cambodia, internal flights are inexpensive and easy, making it a great destination for those people who want to get a little bit more off the beaten track.
Malaysian Borneo - home to amazing wildlife, stunning scenery, indigenous tribes and tranquil islands surrounded by clear seas teeming with life - this is a slice of paradise on earth that really has it all! Although much bigger than either Sri Lanka or Cambodia, internal flights are inexpensive and easy, making it a great destination for those people who want to get a little bit more off the beaten track.
I have found that travelling with children not only changes people’s perspective about us as travellers, but also changes the way we see the place we are visiting. Babies, especially, bridge both language and socio-economic divides and bring a sense of understanding, innocence and acceptance.
So shake off those fears, look forward to having your freedom back and start planning for that overseas adventure when your baby arrives.
Here are 8 tips for planning your holiday to the fascinating and ever-changing region of China
1. Don’t bite off more than you chew
China is a huge country and there is no way you can see it all in one visit. Decide what things you are interested in – be it nature, cities, cuisine, a specific attraction such as the Great Wall or the Terracotta Warriors – and plan to explore a bite size chunk that has what you are looking for.
China is a huge country and there is no way you can see it all in one visit. Decide what things you are interested in – be it nature, cities, cuisine, a specific attraction such as the Great Wall or the Terracotta Warriors – and plan to explore a bite size chunk that has what you are looking for.
2. Learn some Chinese
Chinese languages are undoubtedly intimidating, but attempting to learn a little bit of Mandarin (the most widely spoken, standardized language) will be useful.
Even quite basic Mandarin will help you get around, and people will be happy you’re making an effort. Writing down or printing out addresses in Chinese characters can make things easier.
It’s also worth downloading Pleco, an excellent Chinese-English dictionary app.
Chinese languages are undoubtedly intimidating, but attempting to learn a little bit of Mandarin (the most widely spoken, standardized language) will be useful.
Even quite basic Mandarin will help you get around, and people will be happy you’re making an effort. Writing down or printing out addresses in Chinese characters can make things easier.
It’s also worth downloading Pleco, an excellent Chinese-English dictionary app.
3. Be prepared to try local foods
Outside of China, impressions of Chinese food are still often defined by the sweet, balanced flavours of Cantonese food. Dim sum and other Cantonese dishes are delicious of course, but there’s a whole world of regional cuisines to discover: the fiery spice of Sichuan and Hunan cuisine; the freshness and sour funkiness of food from Guizhou and Yunnan.
Plus Hangzhou and Shanghai‘s light, refined dumplings and seafood, and the hearty quasi-Turkish kebabs and hand-pulled noodles from Xinjiang. You may want to travel for some of these dishes, but major cities will host restaurants from around the country.
Outside of China, impressions of Chinese food are still often defined by the sweet, balanced flavours of Cantonese food. Dim sum and other Cantonese dishes are delicious of course, but there’s a whole world of regional cuisines to discover: the fiery spice of Sichuan and Hunan cuisine; the freshness and sour funkiness of food from Guizhou and Yunnan.
Plus Hangzhou and Shanghai‘s light, refined dumplings and seafood, and the hearty quasi-Turkish kebabs and hand-pulled noodles from Xinjiang. You may want to travel for some of these dishes, but major cities will host restaurants from around the country.
4. Keeping digitally connected
Facebook, Youtube, Google Maps, and most Western email providers are difficult to access in China, so you may want to download a Virtual Private Network (VPN), which will help you get past the so-called “Great Firewall”.
Inside China there are a few extremely helpful apps: WeChat could simply be explained as a Chinese WhatsApp but in reality, it’s a combination of that, Facebook, PayPal, a food delivery service, and much more. Some of these features are difficult to navigate with limited Chinese, but you’ll need WeChat to talk to new friends, and you can “follow” magazines, museums, restaurants and more on the app to learn about special events and deals.
Baidu Maps is an excellent Google Maps alternative.
Facebook, Youtube, Google Maps, and most Western email providers are difficult to access in China, so you may want to download a Virtual Private Network (VPN), which will help you get past the so-called “Great Firewall”.
Inside China there are a few extremely helpful apps: WeChat could simply be explained as a Chinese WhatsApp but in reality, it’s a combination of that, Facebook, PayPal, a food delivery service, and much more. Some of these features are difficult to navigate with limited Chinese, but you’ll need WeChat to talk to new friends, and you can “follow” magazines, museums, restaurants and more on the app to learn about special events and deals.
Baidu Maps is an excellent Google Maps alternative.
5. Take the train
For many countries this suggestion would imply the romance of watching the countryside slide by your window. That factor still holds here, but China’s high speed rail network is notable mainly for its sheer convenience. With stations closer to city centres than airports, train journeys between major cities are a comfortable, cheaper alternative to domestic flights.
The five hours between Beijing and Shanghai compare favourably to the flight time, with considerably less stress. Furthermore, the bustling modern stations provide a glimpse of the direction the country is heading in.
For many countries this suggestion would imply the romance of watching the countryside slide by your window. That factor still holds here, but China’s high speed rail network is notable mainly for its sheer convenience. With stations closer to city centres than airports, train journeys between major cities are a comfortable, cheaper alternative to domestic flights.
The five hours between Beijing and Shanghai compare favourably to the flight time, with considerably less stress. Furthermore, the bustling modern stations provide a glimpse of the direction the country is heading in.
6. Do some shopping
Sure, you can buy fake goods in China. But there’s so much more on offer. Why not pick up some quality oolong or pu’er tea? In the hutongs (alleys) around Guloudongdajie in Beijing, boutiques stock clothes from local designers and nostalgic socialist-chic homewares. Stores like Closing Ceremony in Shanghai offer an array of Chinese photo books and art magazines.
Sure, you can buy fake goods in China. But there’s so much more on offer. Why not pick up some quality oolong or pu’er tea? In the hutongs (alleys) around Guloudongdajie in Beijing, boutiques stock clothes from local designers and nostalgic socialist-chic homewares. Stores like Closing Ceremony in Shanghai offer an array of Chinese photo books and art magazines.
7. Go to a show
Chinese contemporary art is firmly established internationally, so you should check out some exhibits at the source: prominent galleries include the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art in Beijing, the Power Station of Art in Shanghai, and OCT Contemporary Art Terminal in Shenzhen.
If you’re more into music, bars in Beijing – try School – carry on the capital’s decades long tradition of gritty rock, and Shanghai’s electronic music scene is known as one of Asia’s best.
And, of course, you can't miss the spectacle of an authentic Chinese acrobat or water puppet show - both of which are entrancing and beautiful to behold.
7. Go to a show
Chinese contemporary art is firmly established internationally, so you should check out some exhibits at the source: prominent galleries include the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art in Beijing, the Power Station of Art in Shanghai, and OCT Contemporary Art Terminal in Shenzhen.
If you’re more into music, bars in Beijing – try School – carry on the capital’s decades long tradition of gritty rock, and Shanghai’s electronic music scene is known as one of Asia’s best.
And, of course, you can't miss the spectacle of an authentic Chinese acrobat or water puppet show - both of which are entrancing and beautiful to behold.
8. Plan for the weather and holidays
Spring (April/May) and Autumn (Oct/Nov) are the best time to catch pleasant moderate temperatures in most regions.
Also be sure to avoid scheduling your trip during major Chinese holidays. Transport networks will be full to bursting during Chinese New Year, while Golden Week, at the beginning of October, sees locals file out of the cities in droves to explore their own backyard.
Spring (April/May) and Autumn (Oct/Nov) are the best time to catch pleasant moderate temperatures in most regions.
Also be sure to avoid scheduling your trip during major Chinese holidays. Transport networks will be full to bursting during Chinese New Year, while Golden Week, at the beginning of October, sees locals file out of the cities in droves to explore their own backyard.
Feeling the onset of a sort throat and a runny nose, I thought about garlic - nature's immune boosting super food. Then I thought about the garlic curry I was taught how to make in Sri Lanka back in 2003 and I had a sudden urge to dig out the old Lonely Planet guide where I had hastily scribbled down the recipe as I stood with our host in his small kitchen in the lush hills of Ella, surrounded by the local tea plantations.
Rifling through the pages where I had also written down the recipes for dhal, aubergine curry, pineapple chutney and plantain sambal, I was transported back to that time long ago when we travelled with our 20 month old son and fell in love with Sri Lanka, its cuisine and its generous people.
If, like me, you are hankering for something seriously garlicky, then check out the recipe below. Done correctly, the garlic should be melt-in-your-mouth soft and is perfect served with fluffy Sri Lankan rice with some sambal as a side.
Ingredients:
100 cloves of garlic (you can buy these pre-peeled in supermarkets)
1 onion
Pinch of fennugreek
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons of tumeric
1 tin coconut cream
1 tablespoon tamarind (or lime or vinegar)
Method:
Fry onion and garlic lightly. Add a pinch of fennugreek and the mustard seeds and continue frying until onion is soft. Add half a tin of coconut cream, watered down. Add salt to taste and simmer to reduce liquid (takes around 45 minutes), adding the tumeric part way through.
Once reduced, add the tamarind and the remaining coconut cream. Stir and bring back to a simmer.
Serve with rice and sambal.
Rifling through the pages where I had also written down the recipes for dhal, aubergine curry, pineapple chutney and plantain sambal, I was transported back to that time long ago when we travelled with our 20 month old son and fell in love with Sri Lanka, its cuisine and its generous people.
If, like me, you are hankering for something seriously garlicky, then check out the recipe below. Done correctly, the garlic should be melt-in-your-mouth soft and is perfect served with fluffy Sri Lankan rice with some sambal as a side.
Ingredients:
100 cloves of garlic (you can buy these pre-peeled in supermarkets)
1 onion
Pinch of fennugreek
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons of tumeric
1 tin coconut cream
1 tablespoon tamarind (or lime or vinegar)
Method:
Fry onion and garlic lightly. Add a pinch of fennugreek and the mustard seeds and continue frying until onion is soft. Add half a tin of coconut cream, watered down. Add salt to taste and simmer to reduce liquid (takes around 45 minutes), adding the tumeric part way through.
Once reduced, add the tamarind and the remaining coconut cream. Stir and bring back to a simmer.
Serve with rice and sambal.
With so many travel apps out there in the market, but only so much space on your smartphone, how does one choose which ones to get? Here are 9 of my favourite to help you get the most out of your travels in 2017.
Citymapper - Comprehensive and easy to use, Citymapper offers more detailed journey planner information than Google, including real-time departures and disruption alerts, as well as Uber integration and cycle routes. It is available in around 30 cities worldwide, with all the obvious city-break destinations covered.
• Free, iOS and Android, citymapper.com
• Free, iOS and Android, citymapper.com
Duolingo - Over 70 million people have registered with Duolingo, a free and incredibly well-designed language learning app. Though not a replacement for proper language tuition, the app is a fun way to get the basics, or to keep yourself fresh on grammar and vocabulary, before a trip abroad. Just like a computer game, the app guides you through levels that you need to complete before advancing, and you gain experience points along the way.
• Free, iOS and Android, duolingo.com
• Free, iOS and Android, duolingo.com
XE Currency - XE is the go-to site for currency conversions on the web, so it’s no surprise that its app is so popular: with over 20 million downloads since launch. It has lots of business-oriented features, such as rates for precious metals and historic currency charts, but for the traveller it is most useful for the simple fact that it’s able to convert every world currency. It also functions offline by saving the last updated rates, which is great if you’re in a place with limited connectivity or trying to save on data.
• Free, iOS and Android, xe.com
• Free, iOS and Android, xe.com
Splittr - There is a selection of apps out there to help you split bills (Tipulator, Splitwise etc), but Splittr is geared up for travelling, providing a simple platform to share costs between friends and family. You can enter expenses as you go, including who paid what, and the app will do the rest. A nice touch for longer, multi-destination trips is that all currencies are supported and you can mix currencies without having to do the conversion yourself.
• £1.49, splittrapp.com
• £1.49, splittrapp.com
Google Translate - This translator can be a useful tool to support your own, more serious language learning, but realistically, it’s most useful on a practical level quickly translating day-to-day words you come across on your travels. For example, you can hold your camera up to text – such as a sign, or a menu – and Google will translate it for you instantly. It’s an essential app for any traveller.
• Free, iOS and Android
• Free, iOS and Android
Rebtel - Skype and Whatsapp will always be staples when it comes to international calling and messaging, but a wifi connection is needed to use them. To make cheap calls around the world without the internet (or faffing around with phonecards), the app to choose is Rebtel. By “hijacking” local phonelines, it gets the best available calling rates. Recently launched, it is currently offering a “Rebel calling” deal, which means friends or family can be called for free if they are also using the app (until 2018).
• Free, iOS and Android, rebtel.com
• Free, iOS and Android, rebtel.com
Waze - Loved by taxi drivers, who know a thing or two about traffic avoidance, Waze is a GPS navigation app that draws from its active community of drivers to create the most up-to-date and accurate road data. It functions in the same way as Google Maps (Google actually bought it a few years ago) but users can easily share information about hazards, traffic or accidents. If you’re navigating an unfamiliar city and aren’t sure where the traffic hotspots are, this app is the best you can get.
• Free, iOS and Android, waze.com
• Free, iOS and Android, waze.com
Tunnel Bear - If you want to stream things such as iPlayer or 4oD, as well as keep your internet connection secure while abroad - which is worth it if you connect to lots of random wifi spots - then you’ll need to use a VPN (virtual private network). VPNs hide your IP address and location and can “tunnel” you to another country. There are lots of apps to choose from but TunnelBear is a particularly easy one to use, and has a free version for those who don’t use much data, or just want to test it out before going premium.
• Free, iOS and Android, tunnelbear.com
• Free, iOS and Android, tunnelbear.com
Accuweather - Once you’ve left the jurisdiction of the good old Met Service, you’ll need to find a wider-reaching weather report source. For international forecasting, Accuweather tops the charts. The website and app, which provides services in over 100 languages, is used by around 1.5 billion people and offers everything from general long term forecasts to minute-by-minute precipitation forecasts hyperlocalised to your exact address.
• Free, iOS and Android, accuweather.com
• Free, iOS and Android, accuweather.com
Yangon is a bustling, traffic congested, crazy city that hums with opportunity and vibrancy. After nearly a month of travelling through rural centres that have changed little since Myanmar opened its borders 5 years ago, it was a shock to the system to come across a city and its people that have embraced the recent influx of prospects and technology so enthusiastically.
 | Five years is, however, not a long time for everything to change. Huge shopping malls with high-end designer stores are dotted between the traditional markets and tea shops, four lane fly-overs compete with twisting one-way lanes, everyone has a cell phone but not necessarily enough food to eat and huge palatial homes abound in areas conveniently tucked away from the massive amount of homelessness caused by huge urban drift in recent years. Towering over all of this is the impressive Shwedagon Pagoda – Myanmar’s most religious site. Standing at almost 100 mtrs tall and inlaid with 3,154 solid gold bells plus 79,569 diamonds and other precious stones, this impressive monument originated over 2,600 years ago and is said to house 8 of Buddha’s hairs. As the sun goes down, hundreds of candles are lit around its base, while the spire itself is illuminated from below, creating a stunning and unearthly effect. |
| Wandering the surrounding streets, one can find beautiful colonial architecture dating back over 100 years to when the city was known as Rangoon and the British were stationed there. The original Post Office, Bank, Harbourmasters and Law Courts have all survived and it was pleasing to note that a lot of the buildings are being restored to their former glory.  |  |
A visit to Yangon would not be complete without a visit to Aung San Suu Kyi’s residence. Aung San, more commonly known as ‘The Lady’, is the daughter of Myanmar's independence hero, General Aung San, who was assassinated in July 1947, just six months before independence. We felt humbled to stand in front of the gates where she had been imprisoned under house arrest for nearly 15 years because of her efforts to bring democracy to then military-ruled Myanmar. In November 2015, five years after being released from house arrest, Aung San Suu Kyi led the National League for Democracy (NLD) to a majority win in Myanmar's first openly contested election in 25 years.
| Interestingly, the Myanmar constitution forbids her from becoming president because she has children who are foreign nationals, however, Ms Suu Kyi is widely seen as the de facto leader. Her father’s death is still commemorated annually and The Lady, herself, is revered by the people of Myanmar. Although there is some international condemnation of how the NDL are handling the Rohingya crisis in western Rakhine State, one cannot help but see that The Lady has ushered in a new chapter to Myanmar’s history. There is a palpable feeling throughout the country, and especially in Yangon, that the time to make a positive start in bringing the country out of its nearly 50 years of hiatus under military rule is NOW! |  |
Citizens, especially the young, educated adults, recognize that they will only get one chance to form a country that is not reliant on outside aid and therefore subject to their deals. Even now, China is angling for access across the top of Myanmar to export their goods to India and further west more easily in return for building roads, Russia sees value in the raw materials Myanmar has and is promising power stations in return, and many countries see huge potential to tap into Myanmar’s vast water supply.
 | The people we spoke to were both excited about the opportunities and realistic about how much Myanmar can do without outside aid. It will be a balancing act with some wins and some losses, but if it can be driven by the types of intelligent, driven and socially aware local people that we met on our travels, the future is bright for Myanmar. |
Christmas Eve in a foreign country is always a bit strange, made more so in Myanmar by the fact that the dominant religion is Buddhism so Christmas isn’t even really celebrated. It was therefore a nice surprise to be treated to pancakes, home-made Belgian chocolate and Christmas cake by our hosts in Kalaw. Needless to say, Santa did not find us at our guest house - probably quite a good thing as our backpacks are already bursting at the seams with all the goodies we have purchased along the way.
Boxing Day saw us head off for our 3 day trek to Inle Lake with our guide, Elmuso. My parents were a bit reticent about the trek due to the fact that we needed to cover 60 kms of fairly steep terrain in the 3 days and, as they were quick to point out, at over 70 years old they are probably past their best trekking days. We were very fortunate, however, to have Elmuso as our guide. He was totally considerate of our (rather slow!) pace and looked after my mother when she took ill on the second night, arranging for her to get a lift by motorbike on the morning of the last day.
 | We stayed overnight at two different tribal villages, the first belonging to the Danu tribe and the second, the Pa-O tribe. It was fascinating seeing how they lived as well as extremely humbling. They lead an incredibly tough life, predominantly farming crops by hand, with their meagre income now being able to be supplemented with the steadily growing tourism market in the short, 4 month, trekking season. As is so often found, although their possessions are few and their daily lives tough, they were incredibly welcoming and it was a real privilege to be part of their village, even just for such a short time. |
| As well as meeting the beautiful locals, we were treated to some stunning scenery. The first day saw us trek through the jungle up to high mountain peaks with amazing views. On the second day we walked through rolling countryside, reminiscent of rural France but with chilli, sesame and wheat crops instead of vineyards. Our final day brought a steep descent down to Inle Lake and a fascinating boat trip through the floating gardens on its tributaries. We also got up close with the famed Inle fishermen who steer their canoes with one leg wrapped around a long oar that serves as a rudder so that both hands are free to haul up the fishing nets.  |  |
We have spent a couple of days exploring the shores of Inle Lake and are just about to head off to Yangon, Myanmar’s capital city, where we will see the New Year in – bring on the fireworks!
Mandalay may have changed a little since Rudyard Kipling waxed lyrical about the city but we went one better than him and actually visited it (Kipling wrote ‘The Road to Mandalay’ without ever venturing this far north in Myanmar, or Burma as it was back then). We found vibrant markets, super friendly locals, cheap eats and some great sights – Kipling’s loss!
| What became very evident is that religion defines this city, manifesting itself in a few slightly quirky ways at some of the place we visited. The first of these was a snake temple just south of the city that tends to three very large Burmese pythons who had slithered their way into the monastery back in the mid-1970s. Their luck was in as it seems they checked in to a reptilian 5-star hotel! The monks believe they are the reincarnations of previous abbots so every day for the past 40 years they have been ritually bathed, fed and massaged on a daily basis. |  |
 | After paying our respects to the pythons we moved on to one of Myanmar’s most important religious sites, the Mahamuni temple. Pilgrims go to pray to the giant Buddha statue housed within, with male worshippers placing gold leaf on its body to demonstrate their devotion. The statue is adorned with so much gold that its once clearly-defined body is now a mass of golden blobs more than 6 inches thick. The only area untouched is its beaming face which is washed by monks, and has its teeth cleaned, in a ceremony every morning. Women are not allowed to touch the Buddha but it seems that gold leaf pasting is a popular spectator sport for all. |
| Another must see religious sight is Mandalay Hill. Spectacular views of the city can be enjoyed from Sutaungpyei Pagoda on its summit. This holy site is said to have been climbed by Buddha who prophesied that a great city would be built here, where his teachings would flourish. Now it has become common for both locals and visitors to follow in his footsteps up the 1,700 steps that wind their way to the top. This pilgrimage is enlivened by conversations with novice monks keen to practise their English, enterprising stall owners and even palm readers. Making the journey is every bit as worthwhile as the destination itself. |  |
 | A visit to Mandalay would not be complete without a sunset stop at U Bein Bridge, the world’s longest teak bridge and Mandalay’s most photographed attraction. One would think with such exposure it would be heaving with tourists, but it remains a popular spot with Burmese out for an evening stroll and is therefore a great place to people-watch and talk with the locals as well as watch the sunset over the lake. |
And then, of course, there is the food. Mandalay is renowned for its diverse and tasty cuisine. Home to interesting dishes such as tea-leaf salad, you will be hard pressed to spend more than $2 on a delicious three course meal. The plan of losing weight whilst travelling around Myanmar is definitely not working out so well!
However, we are about to embark on a 3 day trek through the mountain ranges surrounding Kalaw, so perhaps I could just have one more piece of sugar cane jaggery…
However, we are about to embark on a 3 day trek through the mountain ranges surrounding Kalaw, so perhaps I could just have one more piece of sugar cane jaggery…
The seaside village of Ngapali is one of Myanmar's hidden gems. Set beside a string of golden sand beaches fringed with coconut palms, it has the laid back feel of a Pacific Island infused with an exotic Asian flavour.
A 50 minute flight north of Myanmar's capital city, Yangon, Ngapali is hemmed in between the expansive Rakhine Yoma mountain range and the Bay of Bengal with traditional fishing villages either side. It is home to a mixture of exclusive resorts, budget guest houses and local homes and while it is the beaches that draw the tourists here, for me, it is the local people who make you want to stay.
Quick to smile, content in their lives, curious about the outside world and incredibly generous with their time and with their possessions, the people of Ngapali and the neighbouring town of Thandwe have welcomed me and family with a genuine warmth that is hard to find nowadays. In a world where the saying “nothing is for free” is so usually true, here it is not the case. There is no catch when they stop to talk to you, we have not been asked once whether we want to buy something and we have been encouraged to be part of their daily lives with them wanting nothing but our company in return.
Quick to smile, content in their lives, curious about the outside world and incredibly generous with their time and with their possessions, the people of Ngapali and the neighbouring town of Thandwe have welcomed me and family with a genuine warmth that is hard to find nowadays. In a world where the saying “nothing is for free” is so usually true, here it is not the case. There is no catch when they stop to talk to you, we have not been asked once whether we want to buy something and we have been encouraged to be part of their daily lives with them wanting nothing but our company in return.
| We are staying in one of the few budget accommodation places here in Ngapali called Power Guest House. Situated only 2 minutes walk from what is known as the local beach, it is run by a charming family who go out of their way to accommodate their guests. There are a range of rooms with either fan or air conditioning to suit your budget and bikes to rent if you want to explore the local fishing villages and surrounding beaches. They also have a great little garden restaurant attached which produces consistently stunning food - both visually and taste wise! - and an extensive cocktail menu to round of your day perfectly. |  |
 | And there is plenty to do apart from sitting on the beach while you are here. The local markets sell handicrafts including beautifully woven baskets and sarongs, Ngapali Water Sports run scuba diving trips and river cruises, you can visit the nearby mountain range for stunning views and temple visits or even volunteer some of your time to talk with the local school children as they have their English lessons. |
| But get in quick. Flash, new resorts are springing up on every patch of spare land and it won't be long before the secret of Ngapali is spread far and wide. And while an increase in tourism will bring a much needed boost to the local economy as fishing, their current mainstay of income, is getting tougher due to diminishing fish stocks, I fear that the charm that Ngapali now has may also diminish as more and more tourists descend on this little patch of paradise.  |  |
Bagan (formerly known as Pagan) was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan from the 9th to the 13th centuries. This kingdom was the first to unify the area that is now Myanmar, establishing the Burmese culture and ethnicity, as well as Theravada Buddhism, in the region. Over this period of rule, as the city and kingdom grew in influence and stature, over 10,000 temples were built on the plains surrounding the capital next to the Irrawaddy River but the huge amount of earthquake damage over the years means that only 2,200 temples remain, in varying states of repair.
 | 2,200 temples is still a heck of a lot to explore and in our 3 days here I fear we have merely scratched the surface. We have, however, managed to visit a good array of them, including ones housing intricately painted frescoes, bas reliefs and gold-leafed Buddhas. We spent our first day with a local Burmese guide which was an excellent way to learn about the history of the area and understand what we were actually seeing. If you find yourself in Bagan, look out for Christopher who works from Ostello Bello Hostel – he is highly recommended! |
| Criss-crossing over sandy back roads with him on electric scoters enabled us to get to some of the more out of the way structures and provided a welcome relief from the bus loads of tourists that descend on the more popular structures. The scooters were so much fun we hired them again the other days to explore more of the area ourselves and at just $5 a day, it is easily affordable. We often ended up somewhere other than where we were headed as the sandy tracks meander seemingly endlessly over the plains, but in doing so, we saw many temples hidden away that were both charming and beautifully serene. |  |
By far the most spectacular way to view Bagan, however, is from a hot air balloon. Arising at 5am might seem like a chore, but it is totally worth it when you take off from the ground as the sun is rising and see the sprawling Archaeological Zone laid out below you. We were lucky enough to have the perfect weather for our balloon trip this morning and enjoyed the stunning views of the temples with the famous Irrawaddy River beyond. Top that off with a couple of glasses of champagne on touch down and it really was a perfect start to the day!
 |  |
Tomorrow sees another early start (4am!!!) as we start our boat trip up the Irrawaddy to Mandalay. We might just squeeze in one last scooter jaunt this evening though to catch the sun setting behind the mesmerizing temples of Bagan and get our tally slightly closer to that 2,200!
Having grown up hearing about Rudyard Kipling's poem with its famous line of, "On the road to Mandalay", it is with great excitement that I set off with my husband, 2 children and my parents for a 4 weeks adventure to the exotic land of Myanmar. Not that we will actually be arriving in Mandaly exclusively by road - there are 4 flights, an 11 hour bus journey and a day journeying up the Irrawaddy River by boat before we will be able to set eyes on the former royal capital of Myanmar that so inspired Kipling to write his love filled poem.
| Myanmar, previously known as a Burma, sits between the western coasts of Bangladesh and Thailand and has a population of roughly 48.7 million. It was long considered a pariah state while under the rule of an oppressive military junta from 1962 to 2011. The generals who ran the country suppressed almost all dissent - symbolised by the house arrest of opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi - and stood accused of gross human rights abuses, prompting international condemnation and sanctions. A gradual liberalisation process has been under way since 2010. Htin Kyaw was sworn in as president in March 2016, ushering in the first democratically elected government into office after decades of military rule. Rightfully, the job belonged to Nobel laureate Aung San Suu Kyi, but Suu Kyi was barred by the constitution from becoming president, and she made it clear that whoever sits in that chair will be her proxy. She has said repeatedly she will run the government from behind the scenes and this does indeed seem to be the case. In a nation so new to democracy but still heavily controlled by the military and a country experiencing rapid growth in both trade and tourism, it will be very interesting to see how the old blends with the new. I hope you enjoy sharing our journey with us over the next month. |  |
I leave you with some words of Rudyard Kipling...
Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren't no Ten Commandments an' a man can raise a thirst;
For the temple-bells are callin', an' it's there that I would be
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea;
On the road to Mandalay....
Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren't no Ten Commandments an' a man can raise a thirst;
For the temple-bells are callin', an' it's there that I would be
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea;
On the road to Mandalay....
Vietnam is renowned for its beautiful countryside, delicious food, welcoming locals and fascinating culture. Here, I share some of my favourite things to do when travelling through this captivating country.
| Hanoi Kids tours.  | Sign up for a free tour with Hanoi Kids, an organisation that pairs travellers with students learning English. It’s free and you’ll get a local’s perspective on the city, culture and cuisine. Your student guides will fill you in on Hanoi life, their ambitions and the Korean pop stars they like over lunch in their favourite cafe. At the memorial to Communist leader Ho Chi Minh, talk about politics and what the place meant to them. The tour is free apart from any entrance fees – if you give money to the guide they’ll pass it on to the organisation. Hanoi Kids: www.hanoikids.org |
| Food tour in Hanoi. Vietnam is a food lover’s paradise, with countless tasty and affordable options, but the sheer amount of things and places to eat, especially in the big cities, can be overwhelming. Taking a food tour with a local guide is the perfect way to sample a wide selection in a relatively short amount of time. Your guide will take you to some of their favourite eating places in the city and order a variety of dishes. Bun cha (pork with rice noodles), mi quang (fantastic noodle dish), happy pancakes, spring rolls, pho, beautiful steamed fish, sticky rice and egg coffee (yes, you read it correctly) are some of the highlights of the region. You will be taught how each should be eaten and which sauces go best with each dish and the correct dipping order. You will also gain some great tips on specialities to seek out in other regions of Vietnam. Hanoi Street Food Tours: http://streetfoodtourshanoi.blogspot.co.nz/ |  |
Ninh Binh Countryside.
 | OK, so the town of Ninh Binh (two hours’ drive south of Hanoi) is no looker, but the surrounding countryside will seduce you. Once there you can hire a bicycle and set out early morning to explore the karst limestone scenery (think Halong bay with rice paddies replacing the sea). Spend a peaceful day exploring villages, picnic by the side of rice fields and watch the locals at work. |
| Lunch and trekking with the Black Hmong. By far one of the most amazing experiences in the north of Vietnam, is a day spent with the Black Hmong Tribe. Your host will meet you at your hotel in Sapa and take you shopping for ingredients. These will be taken back to their village by moped whilst you hike for around three hours amid brilliant Hoang Lien national park scenery to the village where your guide lives. You will have the opportunity to learn about the Black Hmong life, their beliefs and their village as well as help prepare (and eat!) traditional Hmong food. Ethos: www.ethosspirit.com/simply-hmong Dai Lanh Beach and Hon Gom Sandbar. |  |
 | Dai Lanh beach, 80km north of Nha Trang, where the lush Annamite mountains meet the ocean, is a brilliant place. Once there, I suggest you hire a scooter and make your way down the 30km-long Hon Gom sandbar. On a scooter you can ride past the sand dunes and over the sand-smeared tarmac of a new road leading to the Vuon Xoai restaurant in the floating hamlet of Son Dung. Here you can dive off the pontoon, go on a tour of the village by boat, and dine and sleep under the stars in a hammock. You can travel overnight there from Ho Chi Minh City - it takes about 12 hours – on what is officially referred to as a “sleeper bus”. After we did this trip, we re-named it the “non-sleeper bus” but it was still a great experience! |
| Water puppet show in Ho Chi Minh City. If your experience of puppet shows consists of Punch and Judy-type performances you are in for a welcome surprise. Take in a traditional Vietnamese water puppet show at the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre in Ho Chi Minh (tickets $7.50 which can be bought at the door). The stage is a large pool of water in which the puppets act out tales from Vietnamese folklore with a traditional Vietnamese orchestra playing throughout. The puppeteers are extremely skilled and great artistry goes into the puppets themselves. The theatre is usually filled with local families enjoying the show and only a handful of tourists. This really is something you can only experience in Vietnam, but is an activity that seems to get overlooked by many visitors. |  |
Journey the waterways of the Mekong Delta.
 | Journey from Ho Chi Minh City into the heart of the Mekong Delta on a small-group tour led by an experienced local guide, cruising along the mighty Mekong in a private long-tail boat. Experience this important river delta first hand as you explore both jungle-shaded canals and wide waterways to see fishing villages, exotic fruit farms, and the rhythms of daily life. You’ll also enjoy a lunch of traditional Mekong Delta dishes and sample local specialties along the way. Les Rives: https://lesrivesexperience.com/tours/mekong-delta-tour |
As they say in Vietnam...khám phá, kinh nghiệm,thưởng thức - explore, experience, enjoy!
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My name is Fiona Rouse. As Director of Adventure Together I am excited to be able to share my stories and knowledge with you, hopefully giving you and your family the inspiration to get off the beaten track.
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